Don’t try this at home. This is for entertainment purposes only. If your dog shows any signs of aggression consult with an experienced dog trainer. Don’t attempt to correct aggression problems by yourself.
This is the second part to the video showing the results of training a boxer dog with low level resource guarding. We started training with low value toys. The next step was to teach the dog to let people take its rawhide bones. Finally we have reached a point where we can take a real bone from the dog.
In the previous post and video you got to see me taking the bone, now you’ll get to see how the dog does with its owners. I’m in the first few seconds of the video but then the owners come onto the picture.
Most of the videos I do are hopefully going to be rather mild as far as violence goes. I try to work below the threshold of aggression. Working a dog below the threshold of aggression is something I can do most of the time. Confrontations do occur, but I try to keep them to a minimum.
If you like to see growling dogs I may have a video coming soon with a bit more growling. I have not decided if I am going to post it or not. In that video the dog is growling when we first meet. More than half of that first lesson was growling. Fortunately, so far I have not had any growling while I’ve had the leash in my hands.
More video of the boxer dog giving up a high value beef bone. I’m coaching the owners as they work the dog. But this time the video is also showing the owners working the dog and taking its bone.
Wishing you the best in dogs and in life,
Southern California Dog training
In this video you will see an in home dog training lesson with a reactive boxer. This dog is not terribly aggressive but he does react to big birds taking flight. On this day we are training at Heritage Park in Irvine California. This is the first part of a thee part video series. We begin with our arrival at the park and a critique of previously learned training techniques. Including a crisp and precise about turn and the two leash grips I most commonly use. You’ll also get to see the change of pace exercise used to keep the dog’s attention in distracting environments.
In the video I go over some personal equipment requirements and how it relates to safety. Along with this I go over techniques that make executing commonly use training movements safer. One thing I don’t mention in the video but it is important is if you are moving quickly such as running don’t do a square left turn or you are likely to fall over your dog. I did add it as annotation in the video. Left turns should be done as a deliberate and precise movement even when moving at a normal pace. If you have good knees and a good back you can probably get away with doing a square right turn at a fairly quick pace.
There is a little control issue when the dog wants to bolt after a flock of flying geese. It’s at this point that I go over how to use a stable stance to control the dog. In this section of the video I explain what good body positioning for control should look like. Good body positioning is especially helpful when the dog is getting out of control.
It’s sometimes easier to know what needs to be done than to actually perform the technique when needed. The reason I give specific drills is so the dog handler will have the behavior in their repertoire at a moments notice. One should be able to react without thinking too much about what needs to be done.
Throughout the video I encourage dog handlers to be aware if their dog. I actually edited most of this information out because there were too many children in that part of the video. However, you should focus on what is important and not be distracted by superficial events.